https://www.kimberamerica.com/adirondack

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36568537)

I don’t know which is better, but one of these is on my wish list in 6.5.

If there is a blue wave, I’ll snap one up.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36568546)

It was between the Kimber Adirondack or the new Barrett Fieldcraft. Both are significantly lighter than the Bergara.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36568596)

Either way I love the creedmoor

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36568549)

A friend just killed a 9' Grizz with a 6.5 cm with 143 gr factory load.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36568584)

Do you hand load?

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36568601)

Good luck. When I was looking into the caliber I heard it described as “boringly accurate”, which I didn’t understand until I put 5 rounds into an inch at 200 yards my first time out.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36568656)

Talk me out of those. Can't justify Swaro or Leica

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36568681)

The accupowers are fucking sweet, I looked at the 1-4 and 1-8. Compared the "glass" next to some high end vortex and swaros. Just as good as far as I can tell. Wish they made a 1-6 accupower.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36569716)

I'm like 2% native american, the tribe that is from Chichagof Island. Tinglit or something.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36571925)

Seriously though... the Adirondack is getting great reviews.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36569123)

I'm too afraid of Kimber rusting issues to every trust them again.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36569146)

My 7mm-08 Rem 700 XCR (Extreme Corrosion Resistant) had the spring in the bolt rust completely out, and the firing pin would not engage. It was a $30 fix, but still... I've never done anything with my Montana and I can still shoot sub-moa @ 100 with .325 wsm.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36569182)

I'm looking for a capable super light rifle, that is actually fun to shoot. Hence the 6.5 CM. New caliber to me and it's getting tons of good reviews.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36569894)

So what grain of bullet do you want to shoot and how fast do you want to push it?

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36569994)

https://imgur.com/a/OgmH7yN

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36583320)

Windage are great because you get large caliber in a short action. My 325 wsm is amazing at felt recoil compared to similar may calibers.

Yes, I'm one of the few Alaskan poasters

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36583403)

I think I’ve got a keeper

https://imgur.com/a/b2nj5FI

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36586409)

https://imgur.com/a/7ETh9k7

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36586537)

6.5 CM can be had in a short action rifle (reduced weight).

High grain (140gr+) 6.5 bullets have high BCs, which mean more resistant to wind drift at longer distances and able to carry more energy at impact at further distances.

The case design (brass) of the round has steeper shoulders and longer necks, which allows you to seat the longer, higher grain bullets further out inside the brass than you normally would because the longer necks allow you to maintain tension on the bullet. This is important because the further the bullet is inside the case means there is less room for powder, thus potentially hampering velocity due to a decrease in powder. So with the 6.5 CM, you can seat the bullet out further due to the long neck of the case without having to lower powder charge, thus able to maximize velocities as much as possible.

It's a great round for recreational target shooting for the reasons listed above. It's properties are conducive for long range shooting because you can launch those high BC 140gr+ bullets with mild recoil and mild cost. To get the same BCs with a 308 (7.62) caliber bullet, you need to step up to 210gr+ bullets, which are going to cost more and require a larger case (thus more powder) to get them going at the needed velocities (e.g. 300 Win Mag). All this comes at a cost of more $$$ for powder and reloading supplies, as well as punishment on your shoulder due to the recoil sustained from shooting these for any sort of extended range session. If you're wanting to target practice out to, say, 750 yards, would you rather shoot 20 rounds of 6.5 CM or 20 rounds of 300 Win Mag? One is going to be pleasant to shoot and the other one is going to beat you up pretty good, especially with a light weight rifle like Kimber produces.

But if you're hunting, 99% of people's shots will be within 250 yards. With that range, there's no real difference in a 6.5 Creed, 7mm-08, or 308. So you might as well go with the 308 because it produces a bigger hole in the animal and gives you the option of stepping up to 180gr bullets, which you can't do with the others.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36586692)

I realize the limitations of the 6.5, but I was looking for an ultra lightweight gun, with a small enough caliber that the kids could shoot it, and an accurate rifle. This rifle was designed for alpine sheep/goat hunting. Basically, I bought a cool new caliber in a gun that meets all my requirements. I'm thrilled with it. It's got such low recoil that it would be fun to shoot, as opposed to my boomer .325.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36587538)

I'm not knocking any caliber or gun. Just giving the realities of it all.

If I had to have one rifle for hunting in North America, it'd be something light weight in a 308.

But what fun is only having one rifle?

Check out the 26 Nosler. 6.5mm with a shit ton of powder behind it. You can shoot those heavy 140 to 160gr bullets at well over 3,200fps. You could sight the rifle in at 250-300 yards and not have to do any adjusting in terms of hold over or anything until past 450-500 yards. Basically a totally flat shooting rifle out to 450-500 yards.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36587544)

Also, sometimes you have to take sheep and goats at 550-650 yards, if you're confident in your shooting ability. I've never shot anything past 100 yards though.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36587674)

You can shoot a 180gr. bullet with a BC of .796 (huge!) at over 3,100 fps, that's 3,842 foot-pounds of energy at the muzzle. This would be a long range death machine.

I personally like a 308 for hunting deer east of Kansas where most shots are within 300 yards and use a 7mm Rem Mag or 28 Nosler for anything out west where I'm shooting 500+ yards potentially.

But getting back to the topic, 6.5 Creedmoor is perfect for a first gun for young teenager. It'll easily kill anything up to elk (I know it'll kill elk, but I'd want something stouter personally) and if you ever start to reload, the design of the case makes it ideals for reloading and long range shooting.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36588215)

6.5 Creedmoor. 1 shot, double lung. Just as dead as most any other caliber. See bullet hole in last pic.

My kimber Adirondack in first pic.

https://imgur.com/a/zWIuRi1

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36614031)

https://imgur.com/a/zWIuRi1

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4044356&forum_id=2#36619131)